A Détacher means “to be detached”, and that’s a good way to describe the label’s relationship to fashion. A Détacher is always in style for never being on trend. For this year's Fall/Winter season, however, designer Mona Kowalska cozied up to the latest in vogue. She turned out her classics — off-tone knits and patterned silks in Eileen Fisher-wide cuts — but she also gave into what’s now: skirts worn over pants, trickle down Céline, and American streetwear, specifically basketball athletica (think Hood by Air).
Highlights of the season include polyester mesh shorts-layered-pants cut slim enough to bike in sans spoke-guard, woolen turtlenecks that wrinkle like a Shar Pei, and a knit sheath dress colored like a burlap sack with the words “drug mule” stamped in red across the bust; it made little sense with the rest of the twenties-slash-sport collection (entitled: “sports injury/putting the pieces back together”), and so made for an even louder, if potentially daft (let’s talk), statement. The best look was, as usual, Kowalska’s own, a long sleeve grey shift dress cinched at the waist by two sets of sleeves.